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| The Chile Information Project |
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Baquedano Located at the exact center of town, Plaza Italia (right above the Baquedano Metro Station) is the centerpiece of Santiago. Marking the end of Parque Balmaceda, the beginning of Parque Forestal and the entrance to Bellavista, Baquedano has it all. From art to nightlife to food and drink, it separates uptown from downtown and offers a taste of what's to come. And, since Parque Forestal does make for the best walking path between museums, leave the Metro behind. Instead, enjoy the tall trees, city sounds and a creative spirit in the atmosphere. Think about bringing a picnic basket and blanket along-you won't be alone. Café Literario A small addition to the otherwise exclusively Green Line tour, Café Literario is located four blocks east of Baquedano in Parque Balmaceda. Housing a small gallery, a café, a library and child education center, this is no ordinary café. From children's cinema to environmentalism workshops, there isn't a lack of happenings at this bohemian stopping point. Though the coffee is instant and the gallery not known for its collections, the cafés ambience is utterly enchanting. There are tables available both inside and out, a variety of snacks and beverages available for purchase and an expansive collection of books. Café Literario makes for a great place to study or a cute stop in the middle of an afternoon date. The monthly screenings and workshops are held at various hours of the day and are generally free of charge. Schedules are available in the lobby. Hours are from 9 a.m. until 8 p.m. They can be contacted by telephone at 2-269-0326 or by email at cafeliterario@providencia.cl. The website is www.providencia.cl/café Sala Baquedano Beginning (or ending, if you prefer) where the Red Line 1 meets the green line 5, the tour kicks off at the easternmost entrance of the Metro. Located just under the Telefónica building, this small Metro gallery is made of makeshift walls and frames hung by wire. Though not exemplary of the tour as a whole, it's a sample of the copious public art spaces found throughout Santiago. The work is typically small, ranging from drawings to comics and prints, though a theme tends to run throughout. Hours are from 6a.m. to 10:30p.m., same as the Metro. Admission is free of charge and the gallery (when open) is open to the public. Lodging in central Santiago? Sala de Arte Fundación Telefónica Housed in Santiago's second tallest building, the Telefónica gallery is pure modern. Comprised of two separate galleries-the outer hall and the main, inner gallery-the collections range from large installations to smaller drawing and painting shows held exclusively in the main gallery. While much of the work in the smaller galleries around town is local and lesser known, the Telefónica series feature major exhibits by both burgeoning and established artists. The work, therefore, is generally first rate. Perhaps most appealing about the gallery is its price-admission is free. For its size, its layout and general good taste, you will be hard pressed to find a better value, except on Sundays. Both spaces, when combined for a joint show, make for a long, enticing look at some of the best modern Chilean art. Telefónica is located on Providencia, just outside of the Baquedano Metro stop. Enter through the main lobby just off Providencia and head back through the large wooden doors. Hours are from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., Monday through Sunday. Admission is free and guided tours are available. They can be reached by phone at 2-691-2973. Their website is http://www.telefónicachile.cl/fundacion/index.htm Centro de Arte Alameda One and a half blocks west of Baquedano on Alameda sits the Centro de Arte Alameda and its giant, orange marquee. A cultural institution unto itself, the C.A.A. was originally built in 1993 as a sort of meeting place for youth. Now a showcase for cinema, art and music the location has changed with time though the spirit has remained the same. The building plays home to a small gallery space, a (relatively) cheap cinema and El Living, its very own independent music spot. Because the C.A.A. is a Chilean institution, the work, the music and even the cinema are typically local / national. However, Jim Jarmusch's "Coffee and Cigarettes" has become a semi-permanent resident and other international films aren't uncommon. Due to its variety and sporadic nature, the C.A.A.'s content is sometimes difficult to put a finger on. With 1400 squared meters of usable space, the C.A.A. can be used for company functions, parties or any other large gathering looking for a distinct setting. During the week, random "happenings" pop up often with very little notice and there is even a semi-regular garage sale Sunday afternoons. It isn't hard to see why such a space has withstood time and become an important element in Santiago's cultural history. Centro Arte Alameda is located at Alameda 139. Hours vary based on premieres, concerts, etc, and are best viewed at their website, www.centroartealameda.com. Admission for concerts varies from $1000 CLP to $4000 CLP depending on the act(s). Admission for movies is $2500 CLP general public, $1900 CLP for students and senior citizens and $1500 CLP general on Wednesdays. They can be contacted by phone at 2-664-8821 or by email at info@centroartealameda.cl. Bellavista / La Chascona Bellavista is a center for art, food, jewelry, jazz clubs and everything in between. There's even a mountain bike path on San Cristóbal. On weekends it seems as though the entire youth population of Santiago and all of its foreign residents to come out and enjoy the various pubs that line the streets. For those who wish to explore further, Pío Nono is the main artery leading in off the Alameda, and makes for a great starting point. From here, branch off into Bellavista's signature nooks and crannies. Just remember-always keep an eye on your wallet. To simplify Bellavista is quite simple-La Chascona. Other than the Virgin Mary's roost atop Cerro San Cristobal, the former home of Pablo Neruda has no match for tourist appeal. In addition to a collection of masterpieces by the likes of Gabriel Garcia Marquez and Diego Rivera, you'll find artifacts from nearly every corner of the world and an aura of creativity. La Chascona is more than simply a house-it is a first-hand look at the life of a true poet. Begin the tour in the first floor bar designed to entertain guests before dinner. Head on to the main dining room shaped and sloped to feel just like a boat at sea. From here head through the secret door and up to the bedroom where Neruda and his mistress / third wife Mathilde, for whom the house was named, would sneak away for passionate rendezvous. The house expands upward and outward to three more separate and equally interesting levels. Culminating the tour is a walk into the office where Neruda used to sit and look out over Santiago while he created his future masterpieces. Read a Review of La Chasconda! For history buffs and culture vultures alike, the house is a treasure trove, a walk through time and a taste of what royalty might have lived like. It's a chance to see the unraveling of the Pinochet coup from a much different perspective. A look at the life of a celebrity and the textures with which he colored his existence. As a house and as an experience, La Chascona is a timeless artifact that anyone looking to complete their Chilean experience cannot pass up. La Chascona is located at Fernando Marquez de la Plata 0192-just look for the signs toward the northern end of Pío Nono. The museum and gift shop are open Tuesday to Sunday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tours are given hourly in English and French for $3500 CLP, in Spanish for $2500 CLP and to students (Spanish only) for $1000 CLP. They can be reached by phone at 2-777-8741. Their website is www.fundacionneruda.org. Museums in Bellas Artes Plaza de Armas: Museums and Art Museums and Art in Quinta Normal The Green Mile Begins Here |
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