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By Jan Kretching Yurgiewicz

Located about midway from Santiago to the coast lies the interesting pottery community Pomaire. The Quechuas, who emigrated from Peru, settled this village generations ago in the valley basin at the foot of the Mallarauco, or coastal mountain range. Pomaire artisans preserve their traditions in clay pottery in this small village, just one block long and three blocks wide.

Taking ruta 78 out of Santiago, turn off just before Melipilla (follow the signs). Next, enter the town along a aspen-lined road through rolling countryside. Artisans’ storefronts line the main road on both sides. Many of these shops double as work studios and artisans' living quarters. Peeking into back rooms or behind shops, you may discover a craftsman spinning his next creation on a potter’s wheel. Fairly rustic with bare earth floors, their studios overflow with treasures of handiwork.

The maceteros, or flower pots, come in every size. Conceivably, several adults could stand in some of the truly gigantic ones. Pots, containers, and vases are everywhere filling shops’ entryways, shelves and tabletops. Some of the potters create their designs using ancient Indian receptacles as models. Fascinating in shape, form and shade of clay, eagerness overcomes even the most nonchalant shopper. You'll find yourself eyeing your car to see just how much it will hold.

Up close, you will discover another Pomaire specialty: miniatures. Minute in detail, they feature creches, or nativity scenes, each complete with manger, camels, the Magi and a tiny Christ child. Peasant scenes are another popular item. Tiny cookware items, no bigger than your thumbnail, can be purchased on strings, or small size vases with intricate hand-made flowers adorning them.

Utilitarian items such as cooking, baking and serving vessels in endless forms abound. Devotees of Pomaire pottery swear by their platters, kettles and casseroles, apparently sturdy enough to cook, bake, chill and even freeze. Pigs are a popular motif for the cookware and other pieces as well. Piggy banks come in all sizes, some so huge, it takes two people to pick them up. Rumored to provide good luck, look for little clay pigs the size of a bean. Be sure to locate the shop Monslave Artesanos as it features wonderful archeological reproductions. Each piece is a handmade authentic copy of a native pot, jug, plate, or bowl from various indigenous groups. Each carefully crafted artifact contains the date, name of the specific Indian tribe and locale. Monslave also offers tapestries and murals.

Check out the shop Eliana Munoz just across the street from Monslave. Eliana and her family have lived in Pomaire for generations. They use white-colored clay (greda clara) to create their works. Without paint, these blonde pieces come out of the cooking process highlighted with streaks of black and bronze fire marks. They fire other pieces with a light, tan glaze then decorate them with rope. Giant teapots, mammoth vases, pedestals and jugs fill the shop. Both Monslave and Eliana can be found on the secondary street behind and parallel to the main drag. Items can be made to order. (You must make a deal with the artist, pay in advance and come back later for your work.)

It is also fun to watch the clay being delivered in a horse-drawn cart. Clad in a hand knit sweater and straw hat, the worker lifts blocks of orange earth from his rickety wooden wagon to waiting potters. This scene gives you the feel of walking into another century.

If you love dried flowers, Pomaire is heaven. They come in dozens of colors, and each season brings new choices. Right now you can purchase dried artichokes on stems, whole or just the fuzzy part, dyed in a variety of shades. Wispy, wheat-like dried plants look great in the tall floor vase you just selected. A few shops also feature rain sticks. Fabricated from dried cactuses, these fascinating items mimic the sound of tinkling rainfall when turned on end.

There are several places to eat, most featuring Chilean specialties. Restaurante La Greda ( the clay) serves excellent empanadas, pastel de choclo and churasco sandwiches. Most items cost under $3,000. The smell of freshly baked pan amasado wafts through the town; just follow your nose. Pomaire also holds the record of having baked the world's largest empanada.

When you leave Pomaire, if you have not yet eaten, try Parrilladas Argentinas. Follow the signs outside the village; it's located just off ruta 78. Enjoy their grilled meats and fish along with some libations. The creekside view and a playground for children make this a worthwhile stop.

Highway vendors sell fruits and vegetables at attractive prices. Also available are meringue candies, pan amasado and queso de fundo, or locally made cheese.

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