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By Molly Culver

Interestingly, every culture has some variation on the art of finger food. It's no surprise therefore that in France, where passing around a plate of fine cheeses, meats and fruit is a standard course, there is a verb to describe the very act of "spreading" something on bread: "tartiner."

A meal in a Greek or Arabic restaurant can easily consist of a plate of colorful spreads (taboule, falafel, tsaztiki, hummus, eggplant spread, or tarama salata) accompanied by toasted pita bread. Fajitas could just as easily be categorized as Mexico's interpretation: chopped tomato, guacamole, rice, beans and grated cheese are provided for adorning corn or flour tortillas. The Spanish tradition of "tapas," small snack-size courses originally designed to stave off hunger before lunch or dinner, incorporate anything from fine olives and nuts, to assorted sea foods, smoked meats and cheeses presented in inventive ways.

Though the Chilean kitchen is famous for turning out heavy, unimaginative recipes and few light alternatives, it turns out that a similarly delicate culinary trend exists here in Santiago, taking the form of a "tabla." Moreover, it just so happens that the Spanish language distinguishes this marginal realm of gastronomy with a proper verb, much as French does. You can find tablas - cutting boards adorned with anything from meats and cheeses to ceviche and sushi - listed on just about any café, bar or restaurant menu under the heading "Para Picar." "Picar" (to nibble on) is distinct from "comer" (to eat), connoting a more casual, yet dainty style of gastronomy.

Tablas make an elegant and minimalist option for diners tired of the heavy and dull staples such as "escalopa con puree" (breaded beef with mashed potatoes) or "arroz con pollo" (chicken with rice) that appear on menu after menu. The repeating composition and symmetry inherent in a tabla is always appealing to the eye. The small, bite-size components are pleasing to the senses. And finally, they lend well to sharing among friends, making them a catalyst for a much more sociable meal. Whereas traditional dining leads to conversation lost in its personal plates, a tabla generates a convivial atmosphere around a shared platter.

While a more vanguard location will offer a more experimental - and more expensive - tabla, the tabla is still an economic alternative, if you're splitting it with a few friends.

I have tried all kinds of tablas, at all kinds of locations, at various hours of the day -from lunch to late lunch, supper, dinner, and late-night. The treats I have encountered on tablas have run the gamut of low to high and eastern to western gastronomy. I find they are best accompanied by wine, or a cocktail such as Chile's famous Pisco Sour or Vaina.

My favorite so far is the "Tabla Española" at Café Sicosis (536 Av. Jose M. de la Barra) in Bellas Artes. Goat cheese, Brie, Mantecoso, and Quesillo (fresh farm cheese) are sprinkled with mushrooms, black olives, delicious Serrano ham, a touch of olive oil, and oregano. The "Española" is easily shared by three or four people, and all for 5,500 pesos. This chill, low-lit café also offers a "Viking" tabla, for about 10 dollars, which is quite large, and includes chicken and spicy chorizo sausage, and a smaller tabla, the "Especial," for about six dollars. All of Sicosis' tablas are served on rustic cutting boards and come with perfectly toasted slices of croissant.

At El Diablito, a kitschy bar on calle Merced opposite Teatro La Comedia, there are are tablas of similar variety. The "Tabla de queso," at 3,900 pesos includes Blue cheese, Roquefort, Camembert, Goat cheese and Quesillo. The "Tabla de quesos y fiambres," which costs 4,300 pesos includes an assortment of the cheeses listed above, as well as salami, Serrano ham, artichokes, and palm hearts. The "Mixta" tabla, for 5,900 pesos includes all of the above, plus olives and pickles. Toasted bread, crackers, and rolls often accompany tablas at El Diablito.

Marine variations on the tabla can be found at At Azul Profundo (0111 Constitucion) in Bellavista, one of Santiago's most beloved seafood restaurants. Naturally, under the menu's "Para Compartir" ("To Share") section, you'll find a "Tabla Marina," for 13,200 pesos. The "Surtido de Ceviches," for 11,600 pesos, is an excellent option: this scallop-shaped board is covered in an eye-pleasing, mouth-watering array of seared fresh seafood "a la peruano," including Reineta, Salmon, Corvina, Congrio, muscles, and baby shrimp, seasoned with parsley and lemon. The "Pescados grillados" is truly a tabla in disguise, since it is meant for sharing: also for about 20 dollars, you are served a tabla of four types of grilled fish and vegetables set on a layer of potatoes and dressed with a creamy sauce.

For a Mediterranean twist on the tabla, try the colorful El Antojo de Gaugin Restaurant, also in Bellavista (69 Av. Pio Nono). There are plates to share that offer a variety of Middle Eastern and Greek spreads, such as falafel, taboule, eggplant dip, tsatiki (a yogurt and cucumber sauce), hummus (chick pea and garlic spread), baba ganush, red pepper dip, among others, which are accompanied by pita bread. You can also create your own tabla by choosing from their list of various "rellenos arabes," which are vegetables such as tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant, stuffed with rice and meat, and come four to an order.

Because my friends and I are so keen on tablas, we couldn't resist the current offer at Piola Restaurant (270 Constitución) in Bellavista, where a tabla comes free with four cocktails. At Piola, there are at least eight options that mix traditional tabla ingredients with Japanese food. The "Piola" includes "Japanese" empanadas and Shrimp rolls. The "Royalman" includes Camembert, "potato croquettes" and turkey. The "Campo" has Japanese empanadas, Gruyere cheese, avocado, and salsa. The "Matriz" includes calamari, mini empanadas and sashimi and maki rolls. Since tabla prices are high at Piola, this deal is not to be missed.

I have come across tablas accompanied by soy sauce or pebre (a Chilean salsa of tomato, onion, cilantro and chili pepper), and others garnished with shitaki musrooms, tomato or fruit. At the Subterranea club in Providencia, a tabla included a sauteed mixture of beef and mushrooms. The least adventurous tabla I have encountered was that at the funky El Escondido café-bar in the Bellas Artes neighborhood, which consisted of nothing more than Gouda and Brie on crackers. But because I'm such a tabla fanatic, I enjoyed it. In fact, it reminded me of my family's version of the tabla at home: stoned wheat thins and Cracker Barrel or Brie.

Next time you are craving something simple, something fresh, and maybe something that reminds you a little more of home, look out for this option out in Santiago bars, cafes and restaurants.