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By Harriet Alexander-Orr

Those lucky, lucky people living in Providencia. Spoilt for choice, as far as restaurants are concerned. Peruvian and Brazilian cuisine vies for your attention with Chilean and Chinese restaurants. Ozono, Bar Liguria, Barcelona to name a few. However, there is a glaring omission on most discerning diner's taste-bud radar: Il Bosco, on Antonio Bellet.

But it was not always so. Il Bosco was once the place to go. When the young Italian Gabriel Bosco Salzano arrived in Buenos Aires in 1923, he was doubtless unaware of the impact his restaurant would have upon Santiago society. At that time, his principle concern was raising enough money to bring his parents and six brothers and sisters over from Italy. Once he managed in this, Gabriel Bosco and his family left Buenos Aires for Valparaiso and then Santiago, where in October 1948 they opened up Il Bosco restaurant, on the Alameda opposite the San Francisco church.

"On arrival in Santiago, my father found that there was very little nightlife in Santiago," explains Virgilio Bosco. "His restaurant became a bastion of the nocturnal scene and a refuge for journalists, artists, politicians and intellectuals who came to discuss issues and enjoy the bohemian atmosphere."

The restaurant proved so popular that for 36 years it was open 24 hours a day, seven days a week. However, in 1984 the proprietors demolished the building.

"My sister and I were left with a sense of emptiness, of sadness. We didn't want to let the tradition die, which is why last year we opened this restaurant in Providencia," he added. "Obviously we can't turn the clock back and do exactly the same, but we wanted to create something similar, with a more modern feel."

Which is exactly what they have done. The restaurant serves as a setting for theatre performances, book launches and poetry readings. Last year Il Bosco hosted the comedy play, "90 Minute Pause," and Virgilio hopes to have Bolero and Tango nights. Specializing in seafood, fish and Italian pasta dishes, Il Bosco is a food lover's dream. My friend Hugh's starter of "machas" with parmesan (3,700 pesos) was perfect, while my parmiggiana (layers of egg-plant baked with a tomato sauce for only 3,100 pesos) was undoubtedly better than any I have ever tried in Italy.

Typical of the extensive menu is seafood risotto (3,800 pesos) and ostrich with pistachio cooked in wine, served with sautéed vegetables (6,300 pesos). Our desserts of Tarte Tatin (1,600 pesos) and an extensive cheeseboard (5,200 pesos) rounded off a great meal: fully satisfied, we vowed to return.

June 3 to July 3: "Onces" with card games, dominos etc. - 3,000 pesos and 2,200 pesos for El Mercurio Club de Lectores.