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By Molly Culver

One by one, the streets of Bellas Artes have charmed me: the winding cobblestone Lastarria, cafe-laden Monjitas, and Merced: a haven of used books and Arab pastry shops. And as if we Santiago Timers haven't extolled the virtues of our beloved Bellas Artes neighborhood enough, allow me to sing its praises once more. There is another street that any foreigner calling Santiago home should be aware of, and that is calle Mosqueto.

You'll find Mosqueto at the heart of this historical "barrio arte," nestled between Merced and Monjitas. Leafy acacia trees create a romantic green canopy for pedestrians and cafe-goers by day, while old fashioned lamp posts effuse a Parisian glow in the evening. A handful of artful entrepreneurs make Mosqueto a veritable microcosm of the bohemian Parque Forestal onda.

Café Melinka, at Mosqueto 412, is responsible for first luring me onto this street last summer. Intoxicated by the sweet, buttery smell emanating from this pastry shop, I turned off Merced and delighted at the window display: chocolate raspberry layer cakes, strawberry yogurt cakes, ricotta cheese cakes, manjar orange and chocolate marzipan "pancake" cakes, and all kinds of kuchens (peach, apple, almond, walnut, to name a few) all beamed colorfully from their shelves. These delectable desserts are not take-out delivery only. Owner Francisco Barraza offers a deal not to be missed: for just 1,000 pesos you can select a slice of cake or kuchen (with your choice of tea, coffee, or natural fruit juice).

Two doors down is the elegant Mosqueto Cafe. It has been an instant success since opening last October, offering fine ground coffees (Brazilian, Kenyan, Costa Rican and Sumatra beans) that are rich in flavor and served the way I like it - strong. On the menu you'll find baguette and Panini sandwiches, salads, delicate "Argentina-style" empanadas, and flaky mini croissants. While its warm lighting and sleek wood tables make an ideal study spot, I find the floor-to-ceiling bookshelves and cushy leather armchairs as mouthwatering as Melinka's desserts.

Further along you'll find El Txoko Alaves Restaurant, at Mosqueto 485. Brothers Eduardo and Nieves Bengoa, natives of Vitoria, Spain, have served up traditional Basque cuisine since 2002. Appetizers are ideal for sharing among friends: the "Tortilla Española," an omelet of egg and thinly sliced potato simply melts in your mouth, and the "Pulpo Gallega," or Spanish octopus, is also delectable. Among the entrees are Merluza and Congrio "al Txoko," and classic seafood paella.

Maria del Pilar Arraras, owner of the Flores Mosqueto floral (number 434) is the sole veteran among this eclectic mix of new proprietors, and the author of a new book called "Donde Ir en el Barrio Bellas Artes ("Where to Go in Barrio Bellas Artes"), due out July 1. Arraras was in fact born on this street - "Mosqueto 520, third floor" to a pair of Basque immigrants from Pamplona who arrived in 1952. She opened her shop four years ago, and is responsible for the arrival some of the artful entrepreneurs mentioned above.

Christian Warken and Danitza Pablovic, owners of Mosqueto Café, were originally clients of hers. Danitza helped her lobby for the lamp posts, which arrived in May. She is also friendly with the Bengoa brothers.

Mosqueto was once an aristocratic address, lined with colonial mansions and doctors' offices. In the 1970's, 80's, and 90's, the genteel migrated to the "barrio alto," leaving the barrio arte to the bohemians and intellectuals who call it home today. As an art student at Museo de Arte Contemporaneo down the street from her home, Arraras continued to witness the street's transformation. In the mid-1970's, two seedy motels and a topless bar took up residence, creating a sordid reputation for Mosqueto that lasted until just recently. Arraras opened her shop just after the bar closed, marking a new era for this enchanting street.

If you enjoy city combing like I do, make Calle Mosqueto your next stop. It has something to for the film enthusiast, the book worm, the coffee connoisseur, and the sweet tooth. Fellow hedonists will agree they've never seen such astute urban planning.