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A RAY OF LIGHT REVIVES THE CHILEAN PUBLISHING INDUSTRY
(Aug. 31, 2004) While at home brainstorming for this week’s column, I decided to switch from Fashion File on the Entertainment Network to Chilean TV. I must admit it hasn’t been easy to write about fashion. Although I may have a lot to say, I find myself wishing I could talk to the veterans of this fascinating business of style and print longer so as to learn from their experience.
To my surprise, I saw the light on a local network that night. As the ad for a brand-new fashion magazine flashed across my TV screen, my prayers were answered: I would talk to the people behind Revista Luz.
I purchased the first issue of this newborn publication the following morning. As I flipped through it during lunchtime, I found myself studying it with a distrust that turned into pleasure in a matter of minutes. Fascinated, many questions arose in my head. I called up the magazine that same afternoon and booked an interview with Editor-in-Chief Ana Esfornos.
I was greeted by the editor herself at Luz’s brand new offices in Providencia. To my surprise, she looked much younger than I expected. “Anita” – as the magazine team refers to her – invited me into the meeting room to discuss what this new project is all about.
Focused on women aged 25 and older, Luz has jumped to inhabit the market segment that attracts those who like to live in style. Inspired by the North American publication In Style, the magazine covers decoration, food, travel and fashion trends. “This is a magazine that focuses 100 percent on fashion,” explained Esfornos, with the excitement of a teenager explaining the need for a My Scene Doll.
We spent a few minutes talking about the style industry’s slow development in Chile compared to other Latin American countries. Esfornos explained she had to train in Argentina for her new post, which included attending the Buenos Aires Fashion Week last summer: “My Argentine editor once told me she found Argentina dull compared to greater fashion-wise cities, and I laughed and told her she should be grateful for the industry action there. You’ll find many talented designers in Chile, but they lack access to low-price good-quality fabrics, cheap mass production and affordable international marketing.”
After studying journalism at Santiago’s Catholic University, and completing post-graduate studies in aesthetics at that same university, Ana landed a job at the Chilean version of Elle magazine. After a couple of years of covering fashion stories, she leaped at an opportunity to work at the Argentine publishing company, Perfil Ltda, where she worked at Look magazine before finally becoming the editor of Luz.
Esfornos spoke with authority about the lack of style she finds in Chilean women. “It’s hard to find young women who put themselves together for a social occasion,” she stated, emphasizing the constant wear of informal denim. “You can wear a pair of jeans, and with the right cut, color and accessories, look semi-formal, but they just don’t do that: they’ll throw on their favorite jeans and sneakers to attend a movie premiere!” she exclaimed.
I agree with Ana about the lack of glamour found in many young females. The greatest effort from women may be observed at elderly social events. The women attending are more likely to be able to afford the latest outfits from the display windows on Alonso de Córdova, and to feel more of a need to improve their look with make-up and hair color. “It’s exciting to go see the collections and admire the design and quality of renowned labels, but it’s also frustrating to know that most young Chilean designers find displaying one of their creations in those store windows impossible,” she reflected.
Esfornos spoke of the challenges the magazine faces, from “editorials” (photo shoots) produced in Chile to the finding of street style to be published on its pages. She spoke of the little importance given to the fashion industry by many Chilean investors, in terms of marketing, technological development and funding. The Chilean style industry needs a push; otherwise, reaching a competitive international reputation becomes harder by the day. One of Ana’s goals is to awaken the need for better quality, design and a more affordable price range among all Chilean clothing consumers.
I found myself admiring this young journalist, who wound up in the fashion editorial business by a matter of fate. What with plus factors like working at a brand new fashion magazine like no other in Chile, heading a team of females only – with the exception of the photographer -, and having access to international Fashion Weeks, Esfornos’ job is so appealing I feel green with envy. When I asked her about her plans for the magazine, or whether she’s got personal plans for going international, she confessed there are none. A pity, I thought, for she would be a great asset of Chilean talent at a North American or European Vogue office. But, then again, I realized not all is lost. There are plenty more young fashion writers who hope to fill a position at Condé Nast – like moi.
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