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For all the guide-book hype, Santiago's Barrio Brasil or "Bohemian Promised Land" might leave you scratching your head. As one visitor put it: "Where on earth … is everything?"

Truth be told, Barrio Brasil only consists of a small nucleus of bars on Avenida Brasil, and a few other dives scattered north of the plaza. But on the upside, the scene is low-profile and walkable, treading the Williamsburg New York vibe during the daytime, catering to decadent but money-tight musicians and artsy folk.



Looking for bars and restaurants in Barrio Brasil?

The gentrified nightlife sector all but disappears by day, so be warned that Barrio Brasil can feel like a ghost town until 8:00pm. The bars do exist-they are just boarded up. Fortunately, there are a dozen quirky cafés that don't mind squatters, and several cine-art theaters scattered about. Make sure to check out the Barrio Brasil Plaza's surreal row of Dali-esque playground equipment, and if up for a stroll, the one-story flats in the cobble-stone residential streets exude a quaint charm.

At night Barrio Brasil changes completely, revealing a pulsing background to the grungier, converse-strapped university scene. This is when prices skyrocket and subtle tension simmers between the hippy locals and gung-ho beer chuggers.

Be aware that there is a tacit bar "union" against Happy Hour brews, so don't expect many late afternoon discounts. Not to mention Barrio Brasil's newest rite-of-passage: accompanying your booze with an overpriced sushi roll, Thai curry or dumpling appetizer. It's no fluke: more than half a dozen bars now offer the pan-Asian alternative to papas fritas, raising some eyebrows amongst the born-and-raised-on-churrascos Barrio Brasileños.

Whether throwing back a relaxing "chela" at patio table X on Avda. Brasil or sipping martinis at EuroHappy Restaurant north of the plaza, Barrio Brasil hits a nostalgic chord. Waitresses sashay over creaking wooden floors, and neon signs converge on top of flaking building facades. Under the century-old vaulted ceilings at Boulevard Lavaud and Platipus, it's a small wonder that artsy Santiaguinos have migrated to this serene niche, the city's law-protected historical quarters and shelter from the Microbus Metropolis.



More on Santiago's Barrio Brasil

Bars in Barrio Brasil

Restaurants in Barrio Brasil

Directions to Barrio Brasil