El Circuito Grande (The
Big Circuit):
Rumor has it that this is a dull trek, a waste
of time, and that a visitor should focus on other parts of the
park. This is absolute rubbish! I've trekked and climbed a lot
throughout South America and I still find this hike the most
enjoyable and variable circuit I've ever done. There is no better
way to fully appreciate the different types of beauty that make
up Torres del Paine. This park contains infinite subtle areas
of astonishing beauty as well as the obvious majesty of the towers
and glaciers, and to focus only on the latter is to ignore a
large part of the the overall experience.
I'm going to outline how I would do this trip in 8-9 days- a
length that I find perfect, however it can obviously be done
in more or less time (some people spend 2 weeks on the circuit).
CONAF has been building services rapidly throughout the park,
and the upside of this is that you needn't carry much food nor
carry out your trash, as there are organized stores and trash
removal throughout the circuit hike. The downside of this development
is that you are not as remote and in the wild as you may want
to be. You must have a Torres map (the red one) with you when
you do this trip. Any missing details can be obtained in Puerto
Natales (asking around) or at the Park Administration headquarters,
but it is very difficult to get lost as the trails are well trodden.
Please remember that this is Chile's most visited park and the
environment a very fragile, so remove all garbage, including
toilet paper!!
Day 1: Hosteria/Camping Los Torres to Campamento Seron: 4 hours
The trail winds up the hill immediately behind the Refugio Los
Torres, 6 kms from the Laguna Amarga park entrance. This mellow,
4 hour hike is a perfect way to start the long trek. It is not
physically demanding and allows you time to get accustomed to
your pack and warm up for the days ahead. The trail, which is
impossible to lose, winds through pasture land, and skirts the
edge of the larger mountains of the park on your left. To your
right is the wide expanse of the pampa grasslands with mesas
and rolling hills. The trail rises gradually and tops out over
a long flat valley. If you are fortunate to be hiking in January,
the entire valley will look powdery white- snow or salt. Yet
when you descend to the valley floor you will be pleasantly surprised
by the source of the white; a carpet of millions upon millions
of white daisies stretching in every direction. Campamento Seron
is located in a small stand of trees and surrounded by the daisy
fields. It is a well established campground run by concession
and costs US$5 per person. There is one hot shower (for free),
trash removal and picnic tables.
Day 2 Campamento Seron to Refugio Dickson: 6 hours hiking
The trail heads off behind the campground caretaker's house
and continues along the valley floor until is rises steeply.
The next 1 hour is difficult and tiring as you climb up and up.
From the high point, the trail skirts the steep slope and descends
to Campamento Paine at the far end of Lago Paine. In the distance
you will see glacial peaks that loom above your destination for
the night. The campground at Paine is completely undeveloped
and is one of the few on the circuit that is free. The trail
then continues for 3 more hours along the flat valley floor,
with ever larger peaks rising on your left (the park side). After
one last 30 minute climb you will be rewarded with a lovely view
of Lago Dickson and the imposing wall of the Dickson Glacier
with the tiny refugio (lodge) down below. A steep descent that
requires great care will deposit you at the refugio and campground.
Cost: US$12 for a bunk in the lodge where meals are offered,
US$3 to camp. There is a store that sells pasta, sauce, tuna,
wine, chocolate and cookies.
Day 3 Refugio Dickson to Campamento Los Perros: 4 hours hiking
I suggest sleeping in and relaxing because this easy day will
be followed by the hardest of the trek. The trail heads away
from the lake and weaves its was westward, up the gradual incline
of a forested valley. You will cross numerous streams and are
likely to encounter mud. Most of the hike will be under the canopy
of the native forest in an environment worthy of leprechauns-
the dripping of rain from the leaves overhead onto the ferns
and mushrooms that abound on the forest floor. Three and a half
hours into the hike you will come to the edge of a rocky moraine
field, the other side of which is a glacier calving into an icy
lake. Follow the trail along the edge of the lake and you will
find the campground just as you enter the trees again. The campground
has tables, cold water and a small ranger hut and store selling
the basics: pasta, coffee, tea, tuna, cookies, chocolate and
wine.
Day 4 Campamento Los Perros to Campamento El Paso: 8 or more
hours- depending on weather
This is the crux of the entire circuit and includes a rise of
1000 meters (3300ft) and a descent of over 1200 meters (3960
ft). This can be particularly treacherous if it is raining. The
trail heading out from the camp heads up the valley and one can
see the lower part of the canyon wall that is the pass to cross.
The first 2 hours are a muddy slog through the icy waters of
a Patagonian swamp. There is water cascading down from all sides
of the valley and the ground is so saturated that there is no
option but to simply go straight through the mud. I highly suggest
taking off your hiking boots and using sneakers or running shoes
so as to not have to complete the last 6 hours in boots that
weigh 5 kilos each. After climbing up the canyon beyond the mud
you enter the rocky scree fields that lead up to the pass. Follow
the cairns (piles of rocks used to indicate the trail) for 1
1/2- 2 hours to the top of the pass. When you are done fighting
for your breath and finally arrive you will be rewarded by the
view of a lifetime- the entire valley below is filled with Glacier
Grey, at least 2 kms across and 15 kms (9 miles) in length, ending
out of site at the Southern Continental Ice Cap (Campo Hielo
del Sur). Absolutely incredible! But now starts the difficult
and tedious (as well as dangerous) part of the hike; the descent
- over a thousand meters down steep, muddy slopes through a forest
of stunted trees. You must search for a way to hold onto trees
so as to not slip and slide downwards. This should not be attempted
in the rain. It is dangerous and long. Campamento El Paso is
a wild camping area that was established on the first flat ground
by hikers too exhausted to continue to Refugio Grey. Due to heavy
use and indiscriminate bathroom choice by novice hikers, you
should be careful where you get your water and hike a hundred
yards above the highest tent. There are no services at the camping
area.
Day 5 Campamento El Paso to Refugio Pehoe: 7 hours
The first 2 hours of this hike are frustrating and time consuming
due to the number of downed trees must be climbed over, under,
around etc. and the frequent ravines that one must descend and
ascend. However the views of the sea of ice through the trunks
of the trees off to your right is lovely enough to keep you energized
and excited. There is another wild camping area (sometimes called "Campamento
Chileno" nestled in the forest 2 hours from El Paso. From
here to Refugio Grey is a relaxing, relatively flat 1 1/2 hour
hike with three large ravines to descend and climb. The refugio,
which is located on the shores of Lake Grey is similar to Refugio
Dickson in that it has bunks, a store and a camping area. There
are also trips arranged for people interested in hiking out on
the glacier and getting experience using crampons and ice-axes
etc. (US$50). From Refugio Dickson to Refugio Pehoe the trail
rises sharply for 40 minutes and then follows the contour of
the lake before cutting inland and eventually descending to Lake
Pehoe. It is a relaxing 3 to 4 hours between the two refugios.
Day 6 Refugio Pehoe to Campamento Britanico: 5 hours
The first 2 hours are relaxing (in comparison to previous days)
as one hikes away from Lake Pehoe (on your right) and around
the base of 3015 meter (9945ft) Paine Grande (on your left) towards
the Valle Francais. At the mouth of the valley one is treated
to the outstanding sight of glacier topped Paine Grande (still
on your left) and the black tipped granite massifs of Los Cuernos
("The Horns") on your right. The trail enters the wooded
valley between them. There is a popular camp site (Campamento
Italiano) at the base of the valley but it is usually very crowded
and not particularly sanitary due to the indiscriminate use of
toilet paper by the hikers (carry out all trash, including toilet
paper!). The trail goes through the forest at the edge of a river
and eventually opens into the boulders of a massive moraine field
created by the glaciers in the area. The hike up the canyon is
likely to be accompanied by the echoing boom of massive blocks
of ice falling off the glaciers on the other side of the river.
Above the steep moraine ridges one once again enters the silence
of the forest. One half an hour before the final campground you
will be astounded when the dense forest gives way to a meadow
that offers panoramic views of the 1000 meter granite walls that
rise in front of you in three of four directions. A 300 degree
view of the mind-blowing beauty of nature's possibilities. The
trail crosses the muddy meadow ahead before arriving in the camp
hidden in the trees.
Day 7 Day off in Camp Britanico
The experience of being at the top of Valle Francais surrounded
by one of the most spectacular settings in the world warrants
a day off. This also allows you to hike the 2 hours further up-canyon
to the rim where you can get a look at the famous Torres del
Paine (The Paine Towers) from the other side- a sight rarely
seen by anyone other than world class rock climbers. Far off
in the distance one can see the emerald waters of Lake Pehoe
and Lake Nordenskjold and the pampa grasslands framed between
Paine Grande and Los Cuernos.
Day 8 Campamento Britanico to Refugio Los Cuernos or Refugio
Las Torres
The first 2 hours are the descent of the Valle Francais back
to the junction of the trail to Lake Pehoe (to your right-west)
and the trail to complete the circuit (on your left-east). From
the junction the trail is full of fist sized small rocks (be
careful of your ankles) as it descends to the shores of Lake
Nordenskjold. The distance along the lake shore is long and tiring,
and if you have the money to pay for a bed in Refugio Los Cuernos
(US$15) I suggest that you do so. This is the nicest (and newest)
of all the refugios and the sitting room/cafeteria has a massive
window that offers breathtaking views of the Horns and the lake.
It is the perfect way to relax and contemplate the wonder of
the last week you have spent before hiking out and reentering
civilization in the morning. The refugio has hot showers, comfortable
beds and good meals. Unfortunately, as of last year there was
no really good camping developed at the refugio. There is also
the danger of frequent winds that can rip a tent apart and make
cooking by a camp stove an exercise in futility. Unless the weather
is perfect I suggest staying in the refugio or hiking out. The
hike from the refugio back to the start of the circuit is an
easy 2 hours. Enjoy every moment of it!!!!
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The
larger peaks, such as Paine Grande (3050m), have hanging glaciers perched
upon them
that fill the valleys with the distant rumble of ice falls during the
warm summer months. However, perhaps the most astounding feature is Glacier
Grey, the 15 kilometer long glacier that fills an entire valley, beginning
at the Continental Ice Cap and terminating in the icebergs of Lake Grey.
The park offers an extensive array of hiking trails at all levels, from
relaxing day hikes to the more challenging 7-10 day ¨Circuit Route¨ which
completely circumnavigates the park. Torres is also well known among
the international climbing community as the home of some of the best
rock climbing (and often the worst weather) in the continent. Wildlife
abounds in and around the park with such unique animals as guanacos,
foxes, lesser rheas (an ostrich-like flightless bird) and other birds
easily observed on foot or in vehicles. The proliferation of the guanaco,
a wild relative of the central Andean llama, is a major accomplishment
for Chilean wildlife conservation programs. The park offers a wide range
of services in order to cater to the variety of people who come from
all over the world to enjoy its beauty. There are lodges with simple
but comfortable accommodations, campgrounds accessible by road, many
breathtaking backcountry campsites, and even luxury hotels. For more
information, check out our selected list of services in this magnificent
park.
