Tierra del Fuego, or "Land of Fire," captures the imagination
of travelers as fiercely as Patagonia, from which is is separated by the
Magellan Strait. A collection of islands, it is more or less dominated
by Isla Grande, the most developed part, which is also the largest island
in South America. Argentina claims ownership to Tierra del Fuego´s
eastern section, and rest belongs to Chile. On the Chilean side,
Porvenir, a major oil settlement, is the main town, followed by tiny Cameron.
The
Chilean side is characterized by thick forests, and clear streams and rivers.
It also boasts a handful of pristine lakes, namely Lago Blanco, which is
popular with fly-fishers. Further south from Cameron, the land becomes
mostly inaccessible, where the final steep peaks of the Cordillera lie
near the Fuegian Channels, a series of uninhabitable islands. Isla Navarino,
considered Chilean territory, is home to a naval base as well as a worthwhile
hike, the Los Dientes Circuit. Finally, at the continent's tail end is
Cape Horn, only reachable by sea or by air. Visitors to Tierra del Fuego
generally come during the months of December, January and Februrary, when
Ushuaia becomes particularly happening. Yet, in March and April, you'll
get the breathtaking sight of the Fall colors. To get to Tierra del Fuego,
there are two ferries to Isla Grande: one from Punta Arenas to Porvenir,
and another which arrives in Primera Angostura via the Bahia Azul.
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Hosteria Las Flamencos |
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General
Info Upper range hotel with harbour views.
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Prices
US$70-105.
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Hostal Patagonia,
Porvenir |
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General
Info
Modern hotel. |
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Prices
US$14-21.
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| Activities |
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Culture, Historic
Buildings |
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Porvenir:
Provenir
was settled
during the goldrush, in 1883, by foreigners:first came the British,
and then Croatian refugees during World War II. Filled with colorfully
painted corrugated-iron houses, with the pristine Plaza de Armas
at its center, the town has only a couple points of interest.
The town cemetary (open Mon-Sun 8am-6pm) is a good place to "read
the history of the town in the names of the dead" (Rough
Guide). The Museo Provincial Fernando Cordero Rusque (north corner
of the plaza, Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat and Sun 11am-4pm; CH$500)
holds photographs of miners and machinery from the gold rush
era, and a few cameras from the early years of Chilean film.
The museum doubles as a tourist office.
Cerro Sombrero:
Some 100km northeast of Porvenir lies Cerro Sombrero, Chilean
Tierra del Fuego's other large town. Though it really holds no
point of interest, its a good place to stock up on fuel or simply
to rest.
Drive through the Baquedano Hills:
A small road leads east out of Porvenir into and accross the
Baquedano Hills. This was where most of the gold in the region
was discovered, and it surely shows: remnants of old mining machinery
dot the area. The beginning of the drive offers a gorgeous view,
looking back accross Porvenir.
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Camping, Fishing,
Hiking |
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Lago Blanco:
Though
the northern parts of Chilean Tierra del Fuego could be called
lifeless, arid plain, in the south there are thick forests where
you can camp, fish, and hike. Lago Blanco is a beautiful sight.
To get there, you'll need a rental car. Take the road from Porvenir
that follows the coast - a very picturesque route. You'll pass
through Bahia Inutil, and 99km after that, turn south at the
crossroads. You'll pass a tiny English cemetary, filled with
tombs with curious inscriptions, and as you drive, you'll get
nice views of the bay. Just before the once - Scottish village
of Cameron, the road winds inland and soon becomes surrounded
by dense forest. After roughly 60km, during which you'll pass
an old gold rush era dredge, you'll reach Lago Blanco. It is
a sight to behold, hugged all around by densely wooded hills
and snow-topped mountains. There are now some cabanas, but for
the most part it makes an ideal place for escape. Making lodging
arrangements can be difficult, as there are no phonelines, only
radio phones.
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Hiking, Camping |
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Isla Navarino:
Isla Navarino is home
to a naval base, Puerto Williams, an interesting place to visit.
But apart from this, the island is largely unihabited wilderness,
the landscape composed of stark peaks and quiet, remote valleys.
The Cordon Dientes del Perro ("Dog's Teeth Rampart")
has a 70km hiking trail called Los Dientes Circuit. This trail
is
fascinating, for it is more the product of the wanderings of
indiginous gaunacos than of man. It leaves form the statue of
the Virgin Mary, ikm west of town. The hike takes 4-7 days. Take
ample supplies and be sure to anticipate bad weather. Puerto
Williams's claim to fame, the main city on the island, is that
it is the most southerly town in the world. Surrounded by the
Cordon Dientes rough peaks, it is a small place. The only attraction
here is the Museo Martin Gusinde (Comandante Aragay 1, Mon-Fri
10am-1pm and 3-6pm. Sat and Sun 3-6pm; CH$1500) Well displayed
charts and maps help show how the region was settled and explored,
since the time of the Fuegian Indians, through the gold rush
era, to the current commercial shipping. There are also some
trinkets collected from Cape Horn by kayakers.
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National Park,
Wildlife/Nature watching, Camping |
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Parque Nacional Tierra
del Fuego:
12km from Ushuaia, in the Argentinian half of Tierra
del Fuego, is the National Park that bears its name. This park
protects 630 square kilometers of mountains, lakes, swamps, tundra
and lush coastline. The park is divided into three main sections:
Bahia Ensenada and Rio Pipo to the east, Lago Roca in the west,
and the Lapataia to the south of Lago Roca, which includes Lago
Verde. Here you can see a rainbow of different species of birds,
and mammals such as guanacos, the rare sea otter, ibises, and
the native and endangered Fuegian fox. The park also offers a
variety of trails, most of which are very short--completed in
under an hour. The Senda Costera (Coastal Path) is a recommended
hike, as is Cerro Guanaco, located on the north side of Lago
Roca.
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